'They be all strangers around here now,’ is a lament of
older Merriott people I have often heard. There is some justification for
this for there is no doubt that in recent years many newcomers have
arrived in the village. Gone, I’m told, is the close-knit rural
community of yesterday when the population numbered about 1000 people and
no one was a stranger. ‘They don’t even talk like we do’.
You have to imagine those remarks, if you will, being
delivered in a rich Somerset accent: you can still hear it in the village
on occasion even today. In my young days though it was very much in
evidence and many older people also spoke in an old-English dialect that
had survived in that particular locality from Saxon times. My father, for
example, still used words such as 'thee', 'thic' and 'canst’ as a matter
of course. When the two, accent and dialect, were combined, the result was
a language that sounded quite foreign to the unaccustomed ear.
Another feature of the village was the predominance of
certain surnames; in particular Pattemore, Mitchell, Osborne, Lawrence,
Wills, Hooper and French and, to a lesser extent my own name, Gibbs. There
were so many people having some of these surnames that people were known
solely by a nickname. For instance, my cousin, Laura Gibbs, married a
local man called William Wills who was known to everyone as Willie Winkle.
Another Wills was known as Sammy Nameldish, an Osborne as Sammy Duchy,
another Osborne as Billy Utchem and a Lawrence as Lizzie Partridge.
At one time, even to some extent when I was growing up,
the village was considered somewhat ‘rough’. The men of the village
had a reputation for being belligerent. Apparently they relished a fight,
particularly with strangers and especially when they had a drop too much
cider to drink. Such a trait is more commonly associated with Irishmen and
indeed the village was once known as 'Little Ireland'. But there appears
to be a possible explanation. A local aristocrat, Nicholas Fitzharding,
had connections with the Earl of Pembroke, who invaded Ireland on behalf
of Henry II around 1166. Consequently, Fitzharding was able to obtain
plenty of cheap Irish labour for his various projects such as building a
manor house in the village, quarrying stone and land reclamation work.
There were probably so many Irishmen working in Merriott at that time that
Irish blood was introduced into the local Anglo-Saxon stock.
Geographically the village is quite large. It isn't a
one-street village; it’s more
D-shaped. To see it all you must walk or drive around it rather than
through it, a distance of some one and half miles. In my young days it was
spacious too. The centre, once common land, was pasture or arable land,
crisscrossed with footpaths and tracks. Now it’s a sea of houses.
Place names were, and still are, a delight: Knapp,
Tinker's Lodge, Boozer Pit, Sandy Hoe, Bowood Lane, Half Acre Lane,
Clapperhay, Gapper's Pool, Monkhouse Farm, Bakehouse Corner.

Southern
entrance to the village, circa 1950. It's barely recognisable form this
photo today. Most of the buildings in this picture are no more
I rather suspect that the village that l grew up in was
very much the way it had been for many, many years. Changes were occurring
but the pace of change had yet to gather momentum. It was still
essentially an agricultural community. There were at least eighteen farms
or small holdings. Two water-powered mills were still grinding corn from
time to time. Horses were still very much in evidence although l can
remember very well when the first Fordson and John Dere tractors, provided
by the Americans as part of the war effort, arrived in the village in the
early 1940s.
There were also two small factories. One of these was
originally a water-powered weaving mill where, it is claimed, the sails
for Nelson's flagship Victory were produced. The women who worked there in
the late 1800s and early 1900s, including my paternal grandmother, wore
bonnets just like the Lancashire mill girls. During the war years, weaving
by that time being no more, the old mill accommodated an evacuated London
company specialising in the then somewhat new technology of plastic
moulding. This activity continued into the early 1990s, and provided
employment for many local people. My father and my sister worked there at
times during the war years and just afterwards, and l worked there myself
in 1950, my very first job. l was 15 years old and l was employed as a
trainee in the tool room. l soon recognised that my prospects were poor
and l stayed for just six months.
The second factory was much smaller and specialised in
weaving webbing that was used principally for edging coconut matting. The
looms were powered by a diesel engine. Production finally stopped in the
1970s, thus ending the village's connection with the weaving trade that
had once been so prominent in the West Country.

Tail
Mill circa 1900
Two other establishments that provided work for local
people was Terry Arnold Ltd, a wholesale stationer and printer, and
nationally renowned Scott’s Royal Nurseries for whom my father worked at
various times. Terry Arnold’s premises, now no longer existing, can be
seen to the left in the earlier photograph of the village entrance.
Commercially, the village until at least the end of the
1950s was still quite self-contained. It lacked a natural centre but
scattered around there was a post office, four general stores, three
butchers, two bakers, a fishmonger who delivered door to door by motor
cycle and sidecar, two cobblers, a saddler, two barber shops, two sweet
shops, and a wool shop. There were three carpenters, two of which also
provided an undertaking service. Two people delivered newspapers, one on
weekdays by pony and trap that l often used to ride in, the other on
Sundays using a heavily laden bicycle. By the mid-1950s there was even a
fish and chip shop. And there were also two small garages-cum-filling
stations, but there were not many cars about. l remember as a small boy
sitting on our cottage steps collecting car numbers but the list was never
very long. A strange car appearing was quite an exciting occurrence.
But although the village was very much a
self-sufficient community, it was far from being cut off from the outside
world, thanks to the local bus services provided by the Southern National
Bus Company based in Yeovil and Safeway Services based in South Petherton.
There were frequent services to and from Yeovil, via Crewkerne and the
surrounding villages, from early morning until late at night. Today the
services still exist but operate to a much reduced timetable.
The spiritual needs of the community were met by five
places of worship. They were All Saints' church and four chapels:
Methodist, Congregational, Elim Four Square and the Gospel Hall. The
Methodist church is now a private residence. The Congregational was
extended in an incredibly ugly way and is now a squash club. The Elim Four
Square was demolished in 1999 and the site used for house building. Of the
chapels, only the Gospel Hall continues in use, albeit with a very small
congregation.
All Saints church, which is 14c, stands on the northern
periphery of the village. By Somerset standards, a county with many fine
churches, it is not considered to be of particular architectural note. But
it is where a steady flow of folk from old Merriott families were
baptised, married and eventually laid to rest in the surrounding
churchyard and consequently is a very special place to the many people the
world over who can trace their ancestors back to the village. When I walk
in the churchyard today and read the names on the gravestones of the many
villagers I once knew, it is like walking down a street called yesterday.

Tithe
Barn
Close by the church is an ancient tithe barn. When l
was young it was used for all sorts of activities such as dances,
concerts, wedding receptions and so on I believe it continues to serve the
community in much the same way. But its most interesting role in its very
long history must surely be that of a mess for some of the American
soldiers who were camped in the village recreation ground prior to D-Day.
Their food was cooked in a Nissan-type cookhouse which stood in the
orchard next to the barn. After the war the cookhouse became a scout hut
and it was not until 2000 that a remaining extension to the cookhouse was
eventually pulled down and the old orchard became the site of yet more
houses and a small car park.
Also close to the church are the two school buildings,
which we knew simply as 'little' school and 'big' school. They were built
in the late 1800s. The original buildings are quite visually attractive
but sadly the big school has been somewhat spoilt by the addition of a new
building in the middle of what used to be the boys' playground. You can
see photographs of the schools in another article in this series.
Outside the little school there is a large
kidney-shaped rock, known as the ‘pebble’. I once asked my father who
was a boy in the late 1880s, how it got there. He had no idea but he could
not remember a time when it wasn’t, so it has been there for well over a
hundred years. It provided a natural meeting place, particularly for young
boys. I remember how you could stand on it, reach over and grab the curved
wall bordering the churchyard, place your foot in a well-worn recess in
the hamstone wall and heave yourself over. Children were not supposed to
set foot in the churchyard without permission, and to run, or walk on a
grave, was strictly forbidden. Perhaps that explains why clambering over
the wall was such mischievous fun. I always glance at the pebble whenever
I drive by, just to make sure that it is still there. And the other day l
stopped and looked to see if the recess was still in the wall. It is, and
still in use it seems.
.

Soldiers
form a British Regiment
around the pebble, 1941
In Lower Street there is the village lockup, adjoining
a farmhouse. Many an errant villager will have slept off the effects of
too much cider in its dank interior in years gone by. Today, as you can
see from this recent photograph, it seems rather neglected.

Village
Lock up
Another building worthy of mention is Moorlands House.
Once a handsome Victorian country residence it is now split into two
dwellings, but its original grandeur is not completely lost. During the
Spanish Civil War it was the home of a group of refugees. During World War
II it was taken over by the Air Ministry.

Spanish
Refugees at Moorlands House, 1938
But the village is not what it used to be. When I walk
around it today I do so with a degree of sadness. Many of the old cottages
have gone. The village streets that were once so free of traffic are now
cluttered with parked cars. A roundabout and ugly chicanes to control
speeding have been built in the main thoroughfare - an old Roman road
incidentally. There are far fewer shops. The fields and the footpaths in
the centre have all but disappeared under a sea of houses. Few of the
small farms remain. Some of the old farm yards are now full of houses and
the outbuildings have been converted to homes or pulled down to make way
for even more houses. Sadly, it is now a dense, crowded village and it is
likelier to become even more so as the seemingly relentless rate of house
building continues. It all seems such a pity.
© David
Gibbs 2003